Millarville Horticultural Club Newsletter - May 2024
April has flown by as it seems I just finished a newsletter and here I am writing another one. It is full of great tips and I found it hard to stop at 16 pages as there were so many interesting articles to be had. Also, it seems this month is jam packed with things to do as can be seen in “Upcoming Events”.
It is exciting to see all the birds that have returned. The only one I have not seen yet is the barn swallow (my favourite). There are four pairs of blue birds on our road staking out birdhouses but I have only seen one pair of tree swallows.
I placed my order through the fundraiser but am worried about where I am going to keep them until it is time to put them out. My small living room is already full of seedlings and some potted house plants for the plant sale. I need to go and see what plants survived in my raised beds in the Diamond Valley Community Garden. Perennials can be hard to overwinter in raised beds so I am hoping for the best.
Betty Hiltz sent a link to the new Alberta Garden Book created by GreenGate Garden Centres in collaboration with the Master Gardeners of Alberta. Written specifically for Alberta gardeners. It is full of informative articles so please take the time to have a look. Thanks Betty. Alberta Garden Book Volume 1 Jill Dakers requested that I send out the poster for the Plant Sale to everyone. Please put up wherever you can find a space. A reminder this is the club’s only fund raiser for the year. Funds cover rent of the church hall and speaker honorariums.
UPCOMING EVENTS May 14 - 7:00 p.m. Church Hall, MHC monthly meeting featuring Paula and Wallace Kroecker “Making the most of our Rain Water” and Paul Reishaug “Preparing our Vegetables and Flowers to Show at the Fair” May 4 - 9:00 - 2:00 Millarville Racetrack’s Spring Farmers Market; postponed to May 11 May 4 - 9:00 - 2:00 Sheep Creek Weavers Stash Sale in conjunction with Spring Farmers Market May 4 - Priddis Annual Garage Sale May 4 - 3:00 - 5:00, Sheep River Library, Paula and Wallace Kroeker and Edie Pujo “Water Conservation: “Collecting rainwater & conserving moisture in our beds, determining how much watering is enough”. Presented by Diamond Valley Community Gardens. May 10 - Flower Fundraiser closes to buyers. May 14 - 4:00 - 6:00, Millarville Racetrack, pick-up flowers ordered through the fundraiser May 30 - Annual Plant Sale, Millarville Racetrack. 2:00 - 7:00 volunteers set-up and plant drop-off, 7:00 - 8:00 sale. June 1 - 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., 133 Sunset Boulevard SW, Turner Valley Sheep Creek Arts Council and Diamond Valley Quilters Quilt show and Bake Sale.
Happy Gardening, Gail Dziuba, Editor
PRESIDENT’S REPORT
Spring is everywhere as we prepare for our busy gardening season. Hurrah!
Our April 9 meeting was a busy evening with updates from the Committee Leaders, posters for our fundraisers, and two presentations.
The Flower Fundraiser seems to be going well, so please get your orders in as several items are sold out! Thanks, Jill.
Your Flower Order will be available for pickup at the Grandstand from 3-6 pm on May 14. Then our meeting is at the Church House the same day, 7:00.
The Plant Sale will be May 30 at 7 pm at the Quonset at the Race Track. The rope drops at 7 pm, so don’t be late! Also a reminder to members to pot up those perennials, bedding plants and houseplants that you so generously donate. Volunteers will be accepting them at the Quonset the afternoon of the sale.
Patty Webb was pleased to have more members sign up to care for the planters at MRAS. Thank you all, the planters are much admired by everyone.
Louise brought trays of Spring Planted Garlic, ready to go in the garden in May.
Conrad the Landscaper from Spruce It Up entertained dozens of questions from the members on all aspects of landscaping. His wide knowledge and expertise were much appreciated. Thank you, Conrad!
Our speakers for the May 14 Meeting will be: 1. Making the Most of Our Rainwater by Wallace and Paula Kroeker 2. Preparing Your Vegetables and Flowers to Show at the Fair by Paul Rishaug
Louise Patterson Brun President
HOW TO ATTRACT THOUSANDS OF LADYBUGS TO YOUR GARDEN & KEEP THEM THERE Who else is obsessed with ladybugs? These adorable little beetles are seriously a gardener's best friend! Not only are they just the cutest with their spotted shells, but they are absolute rock stars when it comes to pest control. Ladybugs are naturally brilliant at getting rid of aphids, mealybugs, spider mites and other pesky insects that munch on our plants. An adult ladybug can eat up to 50 aphids per day! And get this - their larvae (which look like tiny little alligators) are even hungrier, devouring 400-500 aphids before becoming adults themselves. Total aphid annihilators!
The key is attracting ladybugs to your garden and giving them reasons to stick around. Go easy on pesticides, which can deter them. Plant stuff prone to aphid infestations like roses, nasturtiums, and veggies - this provides a steady food source. They also love pollen from plants like dill, fennel, and yarrow.
If you want to super-charge your ladybug army, you can actually buy them online and release them into your garden! Kind of crazy but so neat. Just make sure there are some juicy aphid populations for them to chow down on first. Some tips - release them in the evening when it's cooler so they don't fly off. You can even spray them with sugar water to weigh down their wings temporarily. Cover infested plants with cloches after releasing them to keep them contained. So crazy but it works!
Ladybugs are such a fantastic way to avoid harsh pesticides. Once you get a colony established, they'll keep multiplying and stick around to protect your plants.
WHAT IS BLACK KNOT? From Alberta.ca website
Black Knot, caused by the fungus Apiosporina morbosa, is a very common disease of plants in the genus Prunus (See Table 1). A survey in Alberta revealed a significant and widespread distribution of Black Knot found in commercial, municipal, private and natural plantings. This disease reduces the aesthetic value of affected specimens, as infections spread rapidly; high levels may result in the eventual death of the plant.
Table 1: Plant Species Affected by Black Knot
Amur Cherry Mayday Tree
Apricot Mongolian Cherry
Black Cherry Nanking Cherry
Chokecherry Pin Cherry
Dropmore Cherry Cultivated Plum
Flowering Almond Wild Plum
Flowering Plum Prunus Hybrids
Japanese Plum Sand Cherry
Korean Cherry Sour Cherry
How can you recognize Black Knot? The most distinguishing symptom of Black Knot is the characteristic black, tar-like swellings that develop on branches of the infected plant. Initially, a small, olive-green gall or swelling will develop at a succulent growing point or fruit spur (as a result of spores landing and infection taking place). This swelling will grow until it is mature after 2-3 years. The mature galls are hard, black, 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 inches) and may be somewhat ruptured. Mature galls will produce and release a vast amount of spores during the bloom period, resulting in a rapid increase in infections. The fungus continues to grow internally and externally, with the branch eventually becoming girdled and dying.
What can be done to control Black Knot?
Removal of sources of inoculum (prevents population build up)
Prune out all knot-bearing branches during late fall, winter or very early spring when plants are dormant and knots are easy to see
Remove infected branches to at least 15-20 cm (6-8 inches) below the knot. NOTE: It is preferable to prune an infected branch further back to an appropriate location, such as a healthy collar, rather than leave a stub.
As a precaution, cutting blades should be cleaned and disinfected after pruning, if possible, especially if cuts have been made through obviously infected material.
For knots on scaffold branches or trunks that can't be removed, cut away diseased tissue down to good wood and at least 1 cm (1/2 inch) beyond the edge of the knot.
Failure to remove branches beyond the internal growth will result in re-growth of the fungus.
DISEASED WOOD MUST BE DESTROYED IMMEDIATELY (burned, buried or removed from site). Diseased knots can produce and release spores for up to 4 months after removal. Proper composting can help to accelerate the breakdown of infected materials.
Ensure plants are healthy and free from stress (not a guarantee from disease)
Regular monitoring
Ensure adequate canopy ventilation through proper pruning
Chemical control (preventative not curative)
Few choices available
Not usually recommended unless for valuable plantings, such as collections, orchards, arboreta or for severe infestations
Other options
May include use of more resistant selections, ensuring adequate buffer zones between plantings and wild stock, or potential employing biological control products (limited)
Consider hiring a trained professional for pruning activities
HUMMINGBIRDS from “The Wild Bird Store April 2024 Newsletter
Hummingbirds are highly maneuverable fliers, flitting forward and backward as they home in on flowers. But in the dense foliage many inhabit, they often encounter gaps that are too narrow for their wingspan. Since they can’t bend their wings in flight, how do they get through? Researchers used high-speed cameras to capture their movements, discovering two unique strategies: they sidle through while fluttering, or fold their wings in a tuck and glide. For more information on this and other subjects related to Hummingbirds, go to Science Daily and in the search type hummingbirds.
A fascinating Hummingbird fact: they have superb visual acuity. They see colour better than we do, with their vision extending into the ultraviolet spectrum. Their eyes are adapted to see warm shades better than cooler shades. This ability to easily pick out orange, yellow and red flowers amid a sea of cool green, led to the long-held assumption that they prefer red over other colours. Scientists have since learned that the richness of the nectar matters more than the colour of its source.
Turn Your Yard Into A Hummingbird Haven Hummingbirds are attracted to the nectar from a variety of flowers. They work as natural pollinators as they move between blossoms, so the more flora, the better.
Hummingbirds like to nest and roost in spots that are protected, secluded and not too close to the ground, so trees and shrubs are critical. The birds use bits of lichen, plant downs and fibers, twigs and spider webs to create cuplike nests that they attach to branches. These larger plants also attract a bounty of insect life, an important source of protein for Hummingbirds.
Embrace native plants - native flowers often attract native insects, which promote native birds.
Nix pesticides—the number one threat to Hummingbirds. Pesticides can interrupt migratory instincts and cause the birds to lose weight. Additionally, these toxic substances can kill off the insects they rely on for food, as well as spiders, whose webs are a key building material for their nests.
Get a good feeder. There are many feeders on the market, but there are only two important elements to a good one: You must be able to see clearly into the area holding the nectar, and the feeder must be easy to take apart for thorough cleaning. In addition, buying a “saucer-type” feeder will prevent leakage which can attract bees, wasps and ants.
A birdbath is a nice addition: it gives Hummingbirds a place to drink and bathe. Just make sure to check it once a week or so to ensure the water is clean. Putting stones that break the surface of the water allows Humming-birds to know the depth of the water and gives them something to perch on, since Hummingbirds have very weak feet. Adding a mister or a dripper is also an excellent idea and can be attached to the birdbath rim or a branch of a tree or shrub for more protection.
Mind your pets: cats and dogs are threats to the birds in your yard, so keep them inside or limit their time outside to when someone can keep an eye on them. Don’t think Hummingbirds are exempt from these risks because of their speed or small size.
20 COOL SEASON VEGETABLES TO PLANT By Mary Jane Duford
Cool-season vegetables can survive and thrive in cooler temperatures without compromising their flavor or texture. From lettuce to cauliflower, these vegetables will give your garden an added boost of nutrition and color throughout the year. Learn more about what makes each of these cool-season veggies special so you can get started on your gardening journey today.
1. Lettuce Lettuce is one of the most popular cool-season vegetables to grow. It is quite simple to cultivate and is best planted during early spring or late summer. There are many different lettuce varieties to grow (most of which fit into four main categories).
For best results, provide full sun and light frost protection for the plants. Soil should be well drained and amended with organic matter before planting. Lettuce seeds can be direct sown outdoors in the garden for harvesting baby greens, but transplanting seedlings is usually best for spacing control if you’re harvesting whole heads.
When it comes to harvesting baby greens, you can start picking leaves when they’re about 3 inches tall—just snip them off at the base of the plant with scissors. If you’d like larger heads of lettuce, let them mature on the plant for several weeks until they reach desired size; then cut off the entire head from the stem using a sharp knife or shears.
2. Carrots Carrots are a staple of the cool season kitchen garden. Home gardeners should sow seeds when daytime temperatures reach at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit and the soil is thawed dry enough to work with.
For optimal growing conditions, carrots need full sun and well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Carrots can tolerate light frost, but they won’t grow well if the temperature dips too low for too long. Carrots planted in late summer can even be overwintered in the garden (although you need to mulch the surface or the tops can get mushy due to freeze/thaw action).
3. Broccoli Broccoli is a highly sought-after vegetable in the chillier months, and it’s easy to understand why. Gardeners who want to lengthen their growing season can find broccoli a great pick, as it’s simple to cultivate in both the early spring and late summer.
Plant broccoli seeds in early spring or late summer. Wait to plant outdoors until cooler temperatures prevail and daytime temperatures are around 65°F (18°C). Choose an area with full sun exposure and well-drained soil that has been amended with organic matter. Broccoli can tolerate light frost but will not do well if exposed to warmer temperatures for extended periods of time.
Broccoli seeds are easy to plant. They can be planted indoors to grow baby seedling transplants, or you can direct seed them straight into the soil outdoors.
Once established, water regularly throughout the growing season; this helps keep heads firm and prevents bolting during hot weather spells. Keep weeds away from your broccoli patch by mulching around each plant with hay or straw – this will also help retain moisture near roots while keeping fruits off the moist ground where slugs may be hiding.
4. Scallions Scallions, also called bunching onions or green onions, are a wonderful crop to add to your shoulder-season garden. Home gardeners should sow the seeds in full sun and cooler temperatures.
When planting your fall crop of scallions, it’s important to keep them well watered until they reach maturity – usually about 8 weeks after sowing the seeds. By this point, the root systems will have developed enough to withstand soil drying out a bit between waterings.
When harvesting scallions from your home garden, look for baby greens with bright green tops and white bottoms; these are ready to harvest. Cut off the entire plant at ground level using scissors or a sharp knife so that new plants can grow back again if desired. Scallions can be a great way to add subtle onion flavor to any dish, so get creative when cooking up some delicious recipes with this veggie.
5. Kale Kale is a leafy green vegetable that is extremely cold hardy. This is one vegetable plant that can easily survive freezing temperatures.
Kale has a mild flavor that makes it easy to incorporate into meals for both adults and children alike. When selecting kale for your garden, there are several varieties to choose from including curly kale, lacinato or dinosaur kale, red Russian kale, Siberian kale, and Scotch kale. Each variety offers different textures and flavors so you can find one that suits your taste preferences.
When growing kale at home it’s important to keep soil moist but not soggy as this will encourage healthy growth of the plant. Planting should occur in early spring when temperatures are still cool with direct sunlight preferred over partial shade during its growing season which typically lasts until late fall or early winter depending on where you live.
Fertilizing with organic matter such as compost every few weeks will help ensure optimal growth of your plants while also keeping weeds away from competing for resources like water or nutrients in the soil.
6. Cauliflower Cauliflower, another veggie that likes cool weather, can be sown in the early spring or in late summer. Home gardeners should sow cauliflower seeds or seed pieces when daytime temperatures are between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit and the soil temperature has reached at least 45 degrees.
Planting cauliflower in full sun with some light frost protection will give it the best chance of success. Cauliflower needs consistent moisture, so make sure to keep your plants well-watered during dry spells. Adding organic matter to the soil before planting helps retain water and improve drainage while providing essential nutrients for growing conditions.
When harvesting, cut whole heads off at ground level when they are firm and tightly packed with creamy white florets. Cauliflower can tolerate cooler temperatures but may not form heads if exposed to too much heat; warmer temperatures will cause it to bolt quickly.
7. Onions Onions are a classic cool season crop to plant. You can either start with seeds or onion sets, depending upon your preference.
Onions prefer well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter to help retain moisture and keep their roots from rotting. They will tolerate light frost but need warmer temperatures for optimal growth.
For optimal growth, ensure that onions are planted at least 4 inches apart to prevent competition for resources. Once established, onion plants require minimal care: just some occasional weeding and watering during dry spells; however, it’s important to note that too much water can cause bulbs to rot before harvesting time.
8. Cabbage Cabbage, a cool-season veggie, can be planted in the spring as soon as soil can be worked. Cabbage prefers cooler temperatures, with daytime temperatures of 65-75°F (18-24°C).
It grows best in full sun but will tolerate some shade, especially during hot summer days. The soil should be well drained and amended with organic matter prior to planting for optimal growth.
When it comes to growing cabbage, timing is key; if you plant too late in the season, your plants may bolt due to warmer temperatures. Use seeds from quick maturing varieties such as ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ or ‘Savoy Ace’ to prevent bolting. If you want an extended harvest period, try succession planting by sowing new seeds every two weeks until mid-summer. For an even longer harvest season, you can plant your cabbage seeds indoors and transplant them into your garden when they reach 4 inches tall.
9. Spinach Spinach is a highly adaptable and cold-hardy vegetable that can be used in salads, soups, and casseroles. Growing spinach is a breeze as it flourishes in cooler temperatures.
Planting spinach seeds directly into the soil will yield a harvest of baby leaves within 30 days; however, if you are looking for larger leaves, start your plants indoors four weeks before transplanting them outside.
When planting outdoors, make sure to space the rows 12 inches apart with each seed 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart from each other. Once planted water regularly as spinach loves moist soil but don’t overdo it as too much water can cause root rot or disease issues like downy mildew or powdery mildew which can kill off entire crops. Spinach tends to bolt quickly in hot weather.
10. Celery Celery is a veggie that thrives in cooler weather and can be planted in either early spring or late summer. It grows best in cooler temperatures and full sun, but it can tolerate light frost.
Growers should sow celery seeds once soil has thawed and warmed up, but while nighttime temperatures are still well below daytime highs. The seeds need warm days and cold nights to germinate properly. When planting, make sure to prepare the soil with organic matter like compost for good growing conditions.
When harvesting your celery crop, cut off individual stalks at ground level rather than pulling up the entire plant. If you’re looking for an extended harvest season from your celery plants, consider succession planting every few weeks during the shoulder season months.
11. Peas Peas are cold-hardy vegetables that can be planted in late winter or early spring. They prefer cooler temperatures, so they’re ideal for growing in colder climates during the very start of the gardening season.
These veggies are some of the fastest to mature from seed to harvestable size, making them perfect for those looking for an early summer crop. For best results, provide your pea plants with plenty of sunlight—ideally six hours or more daily—and moist soil with good drainage.
To ensure optimal growth conditions, add aged compost or manure into your garden bed prior to planting. You’ll also want to keep weeds away from your pea plants by either hand weeding or using mulch around them; this will help prevent competition for nutrients and water between your plants and any nearby weeds.
12. Radish Radish is a cold hardy vegetable, making it an ideal choice for the cool-season gardener. Radishes can be harvested in a flash, with only four weeks needed after sowing to get them out of the ground for some of the early varieties.
Radishes are best planted in late winter or early spring when temperatures are still cool but the soil has thawed. Radish prefers cooler temperatures and will bolt if exposed to too much heat during the growing season. Planting seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep with 2 inches between each seed will ensure optimal growth and harvestable size within 4 weeks’ time. Radishes come in many shapes and sizes, from round red globes to long white cylinders. These root veggies are great additions to salads or sandwiches for a fresh green crunch.
13. Parsley Parsley is a cold hardy leafy herb that can be grown in cool-season climates, making it an ideal winter crop. Parsley prefers temperatures between 45-85°F (7-29°C) and can even survive light frost if given some protection with a cold frame or other covering.
Plant parsley seeds early in the spring after your last frost date for a late summer harvestable size. When planted outdoors, make sure to give it plenty of space as parsley can reach up to two feet tall.
14. Garlic Garlic is a cold-hardy vegetable that can be planted in the cool season. In temperate climates, garlic is usually planted in early fall. The bulbs stay in the ground when it freezes in the winter before sprouting in the spring and maturing for harvest around June.
Garlic is a perfect crop for new gardeners (especially if you don’t get your footing before mid-summer and are looking for something to do in September).
15. Turnip Turnips are a cool-season vegetable that can be planted in the spring or fall. These root vegetables prefer well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Planting in raised beds will help ensure good drainage and provide better air circulation around the plants.
Root crops like turnip do best when direct seeded. If you’re starting from seed, sow them directly into the ground about 1/2 inch deep after all danger of frost has passed in early spring or late summer/early fall when temperatures begin to drop again.
Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy while they germinate which usually takes 7-14 days depending on temperature conditions. Thin seedlings to 4-6 inches apart once they reach 2 inches tall so each plant has enough room to grow properly without competing with its neighbors for nutrients and water resources.
16. Leek Leek is an underrated vegetable that’s a star of the cool season garden. It’s a member of the onion family, and its mild flavor makes it a great addition to any dish.
Leeks can be cultivated in a variety of climates if they are given adequate hydration and light. Planting leeks in your garden can be rewarding because they require minimal maintenance once established. The key to success is starting the seeds very early in the season (typically January or February).
17. Swiss chard Swiss chard is a great choice for gardeners looking to plant cold-hardy greens in the cool season. These plants prefer cooler temperatures, so they’re perfect for areas with light frost or temperature drops in the late spring and early summer months. Swiss chard will even tolerate some of the colder climates during the winter months if given proper protection such as a cold frame or other means of insulation from extreme weather.
Swiss chard is also one of the fastest vegetables you can grow, reaching harvestable size in just 30-45 days. There are lots of varieties available, from the plain white-stemmed chard to the popular ‘Bright Lights’ rainbow stem series.
18. Radicchio Radicchio, a member of the same family as cabbage and kale, is surprisingly simple to grow. Radicchio can be planted in late winter or early spring when temperatures are still cool and will easily tolerate light frost.
It prefers temperatures between 45°F (7°C) and 75°F (24°C), so you can keep your radicchio growing until the temperature drops too low for it to survive. If you have a cold frame or hoop house, you may be able to extend your radicchio season even further into the fall and winter months.
Once established, radicchio is one of the fastest vegetables around – from planting seedlings or sowing seeds directly in the garden bed, you’ll have harvestable size heads within just 2-3 months. Plus, because they’re so fast-growing, they make great additions to any outdoor garden plot if space allows. Plant kohlrabi alongside them for an extra dose of color in your veggie patch.
19. Beets Beets are a cold hardy vegetable that makes a great addition to any cool-season garden. They’re fast-growing and some cultivars can be harvested in as little as 45 days from planting.
When it comes to planting beets, you don’t need to be a gardening expert – just choose a spot with full sun and prepare the soil by loosening it up with some compost or fertilizer before sowing your seeds. Moisture is essential for the seedlings to thrive, yet be careful not to over-saturate; keep it damp but not soaked. Once they reach harvestable size (about 2 inches across), you can pull them out of the ground one at a time without disturbing other plants nearby – perfect for those who prefer precision over speed.
If you live in colder climates, consider adding some extra protection such as mulch around the base of each plant during light frosts. This will help insulate them from extreme temperatures and ensure successful harvests all winter long. And don’t forget about companion planting: greens like kale, mustard greens, turnip greens, radicchio, and swiss chard do well alongside beets – just remember that these veggies prefer cooler temperatures than their beet buddies so plan accordingly when mapping out your outdoor garden space.
20. Brussels sprouts Brussels sprouts are a cold-hardy vegetable that can be planted in late winter or early spring when temperatures drop and the ground is still cool. They prefer cooler temperatures and will grow best if exposed to light frost or even snow. You can start the seeds indoors and then harden them off before transplanting the seedlings outdoors.
Ensure your Brussels sprouts get a good amount of sunlight, at least six hours daily, to reach their optimal harvest size by the start or end of summer. You should also keep in mind that these vegetable plants take up a surprising amount of space, so plan accordingly.
TIMELY TIP from Greengate Newsletter Grasses like Karl Foerster, if you haven’t already, need to have last year’s growth cut back now. Its done its job adding interest through winter. Allowing the new shoots to reach up too far will mean that they may be trimmed along with last year’s growth and these new shoots do not heal. So, get out the shears or trimmer and cut them back now to a couple of inches above the base. Clean up the debris and you’ll have perfect looking grasses all the way to next spring!
PERFECTING POTATO PLANTING IN ZONE 3 GARDENS from Greengate Newsletter Soil Preparation and Enhancement The first step in your potato gardening journey is to create a nurturing foundation. Enrich your garden beds with well-aged compost, a practice that introduces essential nutrients and optimizes moisture balance in the soil. Aim for a 5-7 cm layer of compost thoroughly mixed into the top 15-20 cm of soil, crafting an environment where potatoes can thrive; fostering strong roots and healthy tuber development.
Invigoration Seed Potatoes Before your seed potatoes make their way into the earth, they can benefit from a process known as "chitting" to awaken their dormant potential. This pre-sprouting technique involves exposing the potatoes to light, encouraging the growth of short robust sprouts. Chitting is particularly beneficial in the Zone 3 climate, offering your potatoes a vital head start. By selecting healthy certified seed potatoes and ensuring they're kept in a cool well-lit space, you're setting the stage for a successful planting.
Temperature Considerations With Zone 3's unpredictable spring temperatures, it's crucial to ensure the soil has warmed to at least 10°C before planting your chitted seed potatoes. Planting in cooler soil can impede growth or lead to rot. A soil thermometer is an invaluable tool for determining the perfect planting time.
Select Seed Potatoes Use healthy, certified seed potatoes to avoid diseases. Each seed potato should have multiple eyes (the small indents from which sprouts grow.
Cutting (Optional) If your seed potatoes are large, you can cut them into pieces, making sure each piece has at least one or two eyes. However, planting tiny whole seed potatoes is often recommended to avoid diseases and ensure stronger plants.
Setting Up Place your seed potatoes in a single layer, eye side up, in a cool, light-filled room. An egg carton or a shallow tray with a small amount of dry peat moss or vermiculite works well for holding the potatoes in place.
Exposure to Light Ensure the area where you're chitting your potatoes receives plenty of natural light but is not in direct sunlight. The light encourages the development of short, green, sturdy sprouts rather than long, white, fragile ones. A north-facing window often provides the ideal conditions.
Timeframe Start the chitting process about 4-6 weeks before you plan to plant the potatoes in your garden. Over this period, you'll see the eyes develop robust sprouts.
Monitoring Check on your seed potatoes regularly to ensure they are not drying out or developing mold. If you notice any problems, adjust the environment accordingly.
Planting Once the sprouts are about 1.5 to 3 cm long and the soil temperature in your garden is at least 10°C, your potatoes are ready to be planted.
TOMATOES from Greengate Newsletter
Here are a couple of key tips to ensure your tomato plants remain healthy and vibrant over the next month or so, as we await the ideal planting conditions:
Consistent Care Indoors While indoors, keep your tomato plants in a brightly lit area, preferably by a south-facing window where they can bask in ample sunlight. If natural light is limited, consider supplementing with grow lights to ensure your tomatoes receive the energy they need. Water your plants regularly, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged, to promote healthy growth without overstressing the roots.
Gradual Acclimatization Introduce your tomato plants to the outside world gently through a process known as "hardening off." This involves placing them outdoors in a sheltered, partially shaded spot for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their exposure to direct sunlight and outdoor temperatures. This step is crucial in preparing your tomatoes for the eventual transition to the garden by helping them to adjust to the fluctuations of early spring weather.
By providing your tomato plants with this attentive care, you'll not only safeguard their well-being but also set the stage for a bountiful harvest once they fulfill their destiny in your garden. Remember, the key to thriving plants lies in the details of their care, especially in these preparatory stages. BANISHING APHIDS AND SCALE INSECTS NATURALLY: SIMPLE AND EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS FOR YOUR PLANTS
Aphids and scale insects are common pests that can wreak havoc on your garden plants, causing damage and disease. Fortunately, there are several natural and simple methods to eliminate these pests effectively without resorting to harsh chemicals. This article will guide you through various strategies to protect your plants and maintain a healthy garden.
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that typically feed on the sap of plants, weakening them and potentially spreading diseases. They are often found in clusters on the undersides of leaves and on new growth.
Scale insects differ slightly as they attach themselves to the stems and leaves of plants and cover themselves with a protective coating, making them harder to remove. They also feed on sap, causing similar damage and stress to plants. Preventative Measures
Inspect Plants Regularly: Early detection is key. Regularly check your plants for signs of aphids and scale insects, focusing on the undersides of leaves and around new shoots.
Encourage Beneficial Insects: Introduce or attract natural predators into your garden such as ladybugs and parasitic wasps. These beneficial insects feed on aphids and scales, naturally controlling their populations.
Maintain Plant Health: Healthy plants are less susceptible to pest infestations. Ensure your plants are well-watered and nourished with appropriate fertilizers. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilizers, which can promote lush growth that attracts aphids.
Natural Remedies to Eliminate Aphids and Scale Insects
Neem Oil: An effective all-natural insecticide, neem oil disrupts the life cycle of aphids and scale insects without harming beneficial insects. Mix neem oil with water and a mild soap (as an emulsifier) in a spray bottle, and apply it to affected areas of the plant every few days until the pests are gone.
Insecticidal Soap: You can purchase ready-made insecticidal soaps or make your own by mixing a few tablespoons of pure liquid soap (not detergent) in a quart of water. Spray directly on both aphids and scales to break down their protective layers and dehydrate them.
Diatomaceous Earth: This is a powder made from the fossilized remains of marine phytoplankton. Sprinkle it around the base of your plants. When insects crawl over it, the sharp edges of the powder cut through their protective coverings, causing them to dehydrate and die.
Garlic or Chili Spray: Both garlic and chili are natural repellents for pests due to their strong scents and potentially irritating properties. Blend a few cloves of garlic or some hot chilies with water, strain, and spray onto the affected plants to deter pests.
Alcohol Spray: Using a solution of rubbing alcohol and water can be effective, especially for scale insects. Apply with a cotton ball directly onto the pests or spray lightly on infested areas.
Cultural Techniques
Pruning: Remove and destroy heavily infested branches and leaves to reduce pest populations and prevent their spread.
Water Spray: A strong jet of water can help dislodge aphids from your plants. Regularly spraying your plants with water can also prevent dust buildup, which can attract pests.
Sticky Traps: Place yellow sticky traps near your plants. These can catch adult insects and help reduce the overall population.
Managing aphids and scale insects doesn’t have to involve harsh chemicals. By employing a combination of preventative measures and natural remedies, you can protect your plants and promote a healthy, thriving garden. Regular vigilance and prompt action are key to keeping these pests at bay and ensuring that your plants remain vibrant and productive.
5 SIMPLE SECRETS TO KEEP GERANIUMS FLOWERING FROM SPRING TO FALL WRITTEN BY JENNY Geraniums, with their vibrant blossoms and aromatic leaves, add a touch of charm to gardens, balconies, and windowsills. While these resilient plants are known for their hardiness, coaxing them into a profusion of blooms requires a bit of care and attention. However, by following these easy tips and tricks, you can keep your geraniums blooming stunningly and enjoy their beauty all year round.
1. Provide Adequate Sunlight Geraniums are sun lovers, and access to sufficient sunlight is key to triggering abundant blooms. Ensure your geraniums receive at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If you’re cultivating them indoors, place them near a south-facing window where they can bask in the sunlight. Outdoor geraniums thrive in full sun but can tolerate partial shade.
2. Optimal Watering Practices Proper watering is crucial for geraniums to bloom profusely. Overwatering can lead to root rot while underwatering can stress the plant. Allow the top inch of the soil to dry out between waterings. When you do water, provide a thorough soak to ensure the entire root system receives moisture. Using well-draining soil and containers with drainage holes prevents waterlogged conditions, promoting healthy root development and ultimately encouraging blooms.
3. Fertilize Regularly Geraniums are light feeders but benefit from regular fertilization during the growing season. Choose a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer with equal N-P-K (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) ratios or a formulation slightly higher in phosphorus. Phosphorus is essential for flower development. You should begin fertilizing in early spring and continue every 4-6 weeks throughout the growing season. Be cautious not to over-fertilize, as excessive nutrients can lead to lush foliage at the expense of blooms.
4. Deadheading For Continuous Blooms Deadheading is a simple yet effective way to encourage continuous blooming in geraniums. As blooms fade, use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to snip the spent flower heads just above a set of healthy leaves. This prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and redirects its resources towards producing more flowers. Regular deadheading throughout the blooming season keeps your geraniums looking fresh and vibrant.
5. Pruning And Shaping Pruning and shaping geraniums play a significant role in stimulating bushier growth and promoting more flower buds. Pinch back the growing tips regularly, especially during the early stages of growth, to encourage lateral branching. This results in a compact and well-branched plant that produces an abundance of flower buds. Additionally, if your geraniums become leggy or unruly, a more severe pruning in late winter or early spring can rejuvenate the plant, leading to a burst of new growth and blooms.
REASONS YOUR GERANIUMS DON’T BLOOM 1. Insufficient Sunlight One of the primary reasons geraniums may not bloom is inadequate sunlight. If they don’t receive the required hours of direct sunlight, their energy is directed towards survival rather than flowering. Evaluate the positioning of your geraniums and consider relocating them to a sunnier spot.
2. Improper Watering Practices Overwatering or underwatering can both hinder blooming. Waterlogged soil deprives roots of oxygen, while dry soil stresses the plant. Thus, striving for a balance is key, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings and providing thorough but not excessive moisture.
3. Lack Of Nutrients Geraniums need proper nutrition to bloom, and a deficiency in essential nutrients, particularly phosphorus, can impact flower production. Regularly fertilize your geraniums with a balanced fertilizer to ensure they receive the nutrients needed for robust blooming.
4. Old Age And Exhaustion Like any plant, geraniums have a lifespan, and older plants may become less productive in terms of flowering. If your geraniums are several years old and exhibit reduced blooming despite proper care, consider rejuvenating the plant through pruning or starting anew with fresh, young plants.
5. Pests And Diseases Pest infestations or diseases can divert a plant’s energy away from blooming. Regularly inspect your geraniums for pests such as aphids, spider mites, or fungal issues. Treat any problems promptly to ensure the plant can allocate its resources towards blooming.
FAQS 1. Can Geraniums Thrive Indoors? Yes, geraniums can be grown indoors. Ensure they receive ample sunlight, and use well-draining soil to prevent overwatering.
2. How Do I Overwinter Geraniums? Geraniums can be overwintered indoors by bringing them inside before the first frost and placing them in a bright, cool, and dry location. Water them sparingly and do not fertilize them until spring. Alternatively, you can take cuttings from healthy stems and root them in moist soil or water.
3. How Do I Prevent Pests On My Geraniums? Regularly inspect your plants for pests, and use natural remedies or insecticidal soap to address issues promptly. Ensure good airflow around the plants to discourage pests.
Geraniums are considered the most popular of all hardy perennials. These timeless garden favorites are perfect for filling gaps and creating stunning pots. With the right care, they will also provide you with an abundance of beautiful blooms for years to come.